I am very happy and proud to make the 2nd ascent of this James Pearson's masterpiece. Not that I am an expert in trad climbing, but it could be (physically) the hardest route on trad gear in the world. It took me 3 days of work, and I had to really put up a fight. The route felt challenging in many different ways, and apart from being very runout (but probably safe), it has some very hard (and odd!) moves where you really need to be a very complex climber.
It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make it runout, but safe. Gradewise, I think if it was bolted, it would be very solid and specific 9a. Placing the gear makes it a little more physically difficult and adds some extra spice.
Stay tuned for some exceptional footage that we got in the last few days.
Photos by Petr Chodura.
