The only shoes I'll ever BE usING

La Sportiva has been making the best climbing shoes for decades, and as I am trying to climb to the limit of my possibilities, there is no doubt about which brand of climbing shoes will be the one I will be using! I have been using La Sportiva since I was 14, and it has been my most loyal partner. It is a family-owned company with 100+ years of tradition located in Val di Fiemme in Italian Dolomites, where the factory is located and where all the cutting-edge shoes are produced. It is by far the biggest producer of climbing shoes in the world.

The range of climbing shoes is very wide, and everyone can choose the model that fits him/her and the style of climbing you want to use it for.

ONDRA COMP

I never imagined having climbing shoes bearing my name. Smearing on volumes, standing on small slopey footholds, and toe hooking—this is why ONDRA COMP was born. We've developed our own jargon - if standing on something small and sharp is "EDGING", then standing on a small slopey foothold will be smeadging (a fusion of smearing = using friction for standing, and edging). For the best possible SMEADGING, you need a shoe that flexes in the sole but at the same time doesn't bend under the toes. 

Read my review and big article about these fantastic new climbing shoes that you can use indoors and on the rocks as well!

Author of the photos: Petr Chodura

SOLUTION

A very aggressive downturn shoe was released in 2007, and Solution shoes are still absolutely revolutionary. I use it mostly for climbing on the rock, which it is very versatile. The unique construction allows you to stand on very tiny footholds while maintaining high sensitivity, way superior to competing brands. 

Author of the photos: Petr Chodura

SOLUTION COMP

Softer version of regular Solutions, which I use mostly for lead climbing in the gym or very steep climbs on the rock or any other climbs where the stiffness of regular Solutions might be a problem. It is equally aggressive but even more sensitive than regular Solutions! You can pull like a bastard onto the tiniest footholds in the big overhang with Solution Comp shoes.

Author of the photos: Petr Chodura

GET TO KNOW THE ALCHEMY OF CLIMBING SHOES

THEORY

Very downturn shoe, but incredibly soft with very minimalistic rubber. Theory climbing shoe works amazing for indoor bouldering or most of the climbing on sandstone.

Author of the photos: Petr Chodura

KATANA LACES

Stiff shoe perfect for edging on the rock. A Katala Laces shoe which I bring for vertical climbs with minimalistic footholds.

Author of the photos: Heinz Zak

MANTRA

My favorite shoe with no-edge technology! It feels like wearing nothing on your feet, they are incredibly light, and it gives a sense of freedom like no other shoe. Surprisingly, the no-edge technology is very for vertical or slightly overhanging climbing, both for edging or slopy footholds. But for the best performance, you need the centre of gravity above your feet, and that is why in the steep overhanging, a shoe with an edge performs better. For outdoors, all sandstone climbing is amazing with Mantra's, but it is worth trying it out on limestone!

Author of the photos: Petr Chodura

TOP 5 CLIMBING SHOES BY LA SPORTIVA?

It matters a LOT what you are wearing while you are climbing. Climbing shoes affect your climbing style, flow and feeling for the footholds. It is important to consider not only that a bad shoe might create a bad climber but also the wrong shoe for certain climbing styles is far from ideal.

Check the next video about the top 5 climbing shoes by LaSportiva that I recommend.

VISIT THE HEART OF CLIMBING SHOES WITH ME

Take a look at the La Sportiva HQ in Ziano di Fiemme to have a quick visit and watch a talk with La Sportiva product specialist, climber and long-time friend of mine, Pietro dal Prà.

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