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9cSilenceFlatanger3 September, 20175
First Ascent
Check out the documentary on YouTube about the successful ascent of the most difficult route in the World.
9b+ChangeFlatanger4 October, 20125
First Ascent. Crazy process comes to a beautiful ending, it can't be any better. No more comment, except for I am still super happy.
9b+Vasil VasilSloup4 December, 20133
First Ascent. 2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy.
9b+La Dura DuraBarcelona /  Oliana7 February, 20135
First Ascent. 9 weeks of epic is over! And hopefully for Chris soon. I can move on. Soo happy.
9bLa CapellaSiurana /  La Capella16 February, 20115
First Ascent Yes! I sent it last try of last day of the trip. An extremely bouldery route which took 7 days this trip and 2 days last year. Bearing in mind the effort, it could be 9b, but I am not sure at all. Would have been definitely 9b if I hadn't figured out better sequence for the lower crux, as I had the sequence I had thought it would be a quick work and 9a+ but in the end I fell nine times in the higher crux... Time will tell
9bMoveFlatanger20 August, 20135
First Ascent 9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE
9bQueen LineArco /  Unknown Crag18 April, 20175
First Ascent 1st 9b in Arco. 17moves of super hard intense pinching, crimping and dropknees, into easier finish. Quite hard 9b for sure, but probably only the harder finish breaks into 9b+. 4 days of work this trip, a few goes three yrs ago.
9bGolpe de EstadoSiurana /  El pati13 March, 20105
HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina).
9bNeanderthalBarcelona /  Santa Linya12 February, 20193
9bIron CurtainFlatanger3 August, 20135
First Ascent One project less, onto the next one! This one took me 6 days this trip plus quite many days of waiting for acceptable conditions. The sending was true heartbreaker, fell off one metre below the anchor because of wet hold in the morning, wanted to rest for the next day, but strong wind breaking the pole of the tents made me go out and send in a beutiful evening, together with Seb and Dharma.
9bMamichulaBarcelona /  Oliana8 February, 20175
First Ascent Linkup of Papichulo and Pachamama. Links the best of of both routes, skipping the rests and adding hard traverse. Sick power endurance climbing, comp style. Definitely hard 9b for me, too pumpy
9bDisbeliefCalgary /  Acephale20 July, 20185
First Ascent Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish.
9bFight or FlightBarcelona /  Oliana9 February, 20135
Perfect last day in Oliana. Time to move on. Awesome route Chris!
9bRobin ÚdAlternativna stena5 October, 20165
First Ascent 4 days of work this year, 1 day in 2014. Ultra athlethic climbing in the cave - 30 moves of hard climbing.
9bEagle-4Avignon /  St Léger13 February, 20185
First Ascent Many days falling and thinking this no more than 9a+, in the end, I hesitantly propose 9b.
9bLa Planta de ShivaVillanueva del Rosario22 April, 20115
First Ascent obsession about this route, one of my hardest so far, pure enurance climbing with few rests, continuously hard with minimum of rests, took 7 days of cleaning, trying and brushing (it had been already bolted)
9bStoking the FireBarcelona /  Santa Linya19 February, 20165
Kind of mental battle for sure. Tried for two days last year in February, then I almost sent it first day in November, then two mopre days being super close in December.This trip 5 days, but it took me a bit of time to get into sufficient shape for this. Brutally physical power endurance testpiece. Right exit will be hard and is one of the biggest challenges in Catalunya.
9bOne SlapArco /  Laghel13 November, 20175
First Ascent Amazing link up of Queen Line into the One Punch with spicy moves in between.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9bChilam BalamVillanueva del Rosario13 April, 20115
I was so glad to repeat this mysterious route. The route is a Monster, so long that your knees trembling from the view, but in the end it was not as hard as I had expected, but deserves its grade of 9b, though it is on its lower end. Only 3 days of work, one hold at the bottom is enlarged.
9bC.R.S.Mollans2 November, 20155
First Ascent What a moment! Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more...
9bMove HardFlatanger10 July, 20175
First Ascent Good training link up. From the first crux of Move move right into the crux 2 of Project Hard.
9bChaxi RaxiBarcelona /  Oliana27 March, 20115
First Ascent Yes, last day of the trip again, I must climb under the pressure... Took 8 days of work, my hardest. Not the best line in Oliana, but still pretty good. 8B+ boulderproblem into 9a/a+ with good rest on tufa in between
9bFirst Round First MinuteMargalef /  Laboratori3 February, 20145
nice short power endurance testpiece
9bLapsusAndonno20 April, 20173
Amazing endurance testpiece with a few artificial holds, but amazing climb nevertheless. Kept falling for two days in February where it was actually finished, I just had really bad beta. For my height it is rather low end 9b, but being taller than Stefano definitely helps a little.
9a+Thor's HammerFlatanger8 July, 20125
First Ascent first two pitches of multipitch monster project from Magnus Midtboe (enormous effort) linked into massive 55-meter long pitch. Could be easy 9b, but climbed it rather fast and found some better beta compared to Magnus. Third pitch is impossible for now though there are some holds.
9a+One PunchArco /  Unknown Crag13 November, 20173
took a few days, hard one for sure! 9a+/b
9a+Iñi AmeriketanBilbao /  Baltzola9 May, 20145
harder than Il domani, even though easier beta than Patxi and Rikar used has been found. 2 days, sent in humidity
9a+GoldrakeMilano /  CORNALBA6 April, 20105
First Ascent incredible fight! 5th go, an old project on the right of Jedi, unfortunately two chipped holds on the start, but sick route! I am absolutely not sure about the grade, it is notorious dilema - 9a or 9a+. Just the same as so many other routes. But I decided to go for 9a+ with this one since it is pretty much my style and the send was really incredible fight
9a+SacrificeEcho Canyon23 July, 20185
First Ascent nice project to the right of Hnour and Glory, bolted by Evan Hau. Hard kneebar boulderproblem into pumpy climbing.
9a+GeocacheFrankenjura /  Vogelherdgrotte23 May, 20163
1 day ascent. Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.
9a+Jungle BoogieProvence /  Céüse5 June, 20125
First Ascent 3 days, 7 tries, awesome power endurance climbing on small crimps
9a+Thor's Hammer 2Flatanger16 September, 20173
First Ascent 3 hard boulderproblems in massive exposure. Second pitch of TH, jumar start or 2nd pitch of multipitch route. Start on the ground will be 80m of 9b+.
9a+Hell RacerHell22 September, 20135
First Ascent 4th day on, last day in Norway, excellent timing and good way to say good bye. Took 4 days in total. Quite serious bouldering into sustained finish
9a+Marina SuperstarSardinia /  Domusnovas20 October, 20095
First Ascent So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful line 35m line in very steep cave. It took me 4 days this year and 3 goes last year. Thanks to Matteo Marinini for bolting and to whole Cagliari!
9a+Stone ButterflyHerculane15 May, 20185
First Ascent Amazing project from Gerhard Horhager right of Guri Guri. Power endurance on small tufas and crimps. Very complex and fun climbing.
9a+Vicious CircleOsp/Misja Pec25 March, 20163
First Ascent 9a+/b. Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.
9a+PerlorodkaHolstejn, Mor.kras6 September, 20115
First Ascent Finally it is done! Great line, one of the best lines at home and feels great to send the line I have been walking around for years and thought of it as impossible. Possibly the route I spent the most time on, but once you are at your home crag, you don't bother with the tries even when you are tired. So great to send both of my projects the same day! 8a + no-hand rest + 7Cboulder + rest + 8B+ boulder (12 moves) + 7B+ mantle onto the ledge
9a+Bohemian RhapsodyRoviste29 April, 20205
First Ascent The longest and hardest linkup in this beautiful granite area. Climbingwise absolutely amazing.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9a+NaturalmenteCamaiore21 April, 20175
First Ascent one of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say.
9a+Kangaroo's LimbFlatanger21 September, 20135
First Ascent Another season in this beautiful cave is over for me. Many projects left behind. Left exit version of Kangaroo's dyno project, the cheater's one. Dyno specialists, come and try it! I could stick the dyno as a single move, but not very close to link.
9a+CoronaFrankenjura /  Schneiderloch6 June, 20095
wow! OK, it is low level 9a+, but still could be 9a+ though I needed mere 8 tries to send it! a bit different sequence than Markus plus being tall helps a lot...
9a+Underground DreamingArco /  Unknown Crag24 February, 20183
First Ascent just another linkup...
9a+PredátorSrbsko19 November, 20155
First Ascent Very nice route with awesome sequence in the crux, which is impossible to grade. For me probably 9a/a+, but with no flexibility definitely much harder...1 daz month ago, now sent 2nd go in 30mins
9a+OvershadowMalham16 May, 20115
4 days this year, 3 day last year, it was already turning out into the mental war, so many slipped feet and mistakes, the send felt quite easy in the end, but the upper end of the grade for sure. Props to Steve
9a+QuiInnsbruck /  Geisterschmiedwand19 September, 20193
2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Furst in 1996. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is suprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9a+UltimatumArco /  Massone19 April, 20173
Icing on the cake after Queen Line
9a+Torture physique integraleInterlaken /  Gastlosen7 July, 20135
First Ascent 5 goes, two days. The full line going to the top. 9a+/b is the most correct I guess. For my height and my beta could be hard 9a+, every other beta for short people could be 9b. This place is crazy!!! I love it here.
9a+PapichuloBarcelona /  Oliana24 February, 20095
brillant! absolutely my style, 5 days of work
9a+Super CrackinetteAvignon /  St Léger10 February, 20185
A route is a dream, the ascent was a dream.
9a+ModifiedFrankenjura /  Holzgauer Wand28 October, 20153
Got so close just after 2nd go ascent in september, now I thought I would crush straight away, but trying Alex's methods was not the best idea as my fingers turned out to be too fat. Resorting to my original beta I sent 5th go of the day. Good training in the end...
9a+ChaxiBarcelona /  Oliana21 March, 20115
First Ascent Skipping the first bouldry section, with the 7b start on the right, logical line on itself
9a+CatxasaBarcelona /  Santa Linya8 February, 20193
my nemesis, the only 9a+ that has two Czech ascents thanks to Jakub Konecny
9a+PachamamaBarcelona /  Oliana3 February, 20175
took a bit longer, 4 days, but feeling quite fit:-) Glad to feel like this after Yosemite
9a+Power InverterBarcelona /  Oliana25 January, 20135
first day of the trip, with totally wet upper slab. Made stoked for La Dura dura, felt strong!!
9a+Open AirInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall17 November, 20083
whopee! my hardest definately! a bit harder than Weisse rose, so 9a+ should be appropriate I hope, when Alex Huber did it, Action Directe considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when AD is 9a, this should be 9a+. 5 days, 9 goes, BUT always in good conditions and friction, in summer it would be something very different...
9a+La CastagneAvignon /  St Léger2 February, 20185
First Ascent Left "En Verve". Project by Quentin Chastagnier. Hard bouldering
9a+Three Degrees of SeparationProvence /  Céüse21 July, 20155
oh, glad it is done! Maybe I can dyno after all...
9a+Obrint el SistemaSanta Ana14 March, 20115
First Ascent 5 tries, 2 days, low end 9a+ I quess, but should deserve the grade since it is pretty tough boulderproblem after 8c+ climbing and rest in the jugs
9a+Czech TripMavrovo19 October, 20185
First Ascent Harder and longer exit of Macedonian trip. Bolted with headlamp on day 1, cleaned on day 2, rested on day 3, sent on day 4. Possibly 9a+/b.
9a+Hyper FinaleSion/SW /  Rawyl17 July, 20165
First Ascent The direct original finish, 3 goes. Includes weird boulderproblem after 8c+/9a climbing and very good rest.
9a+Change P1Flatanger25 July, 20125
First Ascent The first pitch of the ultimate project. Did it on the absolute limit, then the period humidity came and I was no longer able until the end of the trip to climb even the first pitch... Damn, return in September/October
9a+La RamblaSiurana /  El pati10 February, 20085
5.go, without resting hold altough it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited
9a+MeioseInterlaken /  Charmey27 January, 20185
One day ascent, third go. Nice short power endurance on tiny holds. Low end 9a+ with kneepad.
9a+BiographieProvence /  Céüse22 July, 20145
This route was so uch harder to send this year. It took some time to get used to grabbing pockets, three days this year. Having tiny fingers definitely helps a little
9a+L'étrange ivresse des lenteursProvence /  Céüse4 September, 20105
First Ascent project from Sylvain Millet to the right of Biographie, 2 days in summer, 1 day in September, unexpected (too fast) send of sth I had thought that would be 9b
9a+High LineKanjon Tijesno25 September, 20185
First Ascent Amazing 50m of climbing, demanding all the way to the top! Bolted and cleaned in 2 days, climbed in 2 days
9a+120 DegreesFlatanger19 June, 20165
First Ascent absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti.
9aPPPNice /  Verdon7 August, 20105
First Ascent The line of the cave, though the climbing is not as nice as Pull Over. Not sure about the grade, probably harder than Pull Over, but maybe I am wrong because I did in the end of the day
9aPsikoterapiaBilbao /  Valdegobia7 May, 20143
power endurance
9aClimb FreeNezer Cave30 November, 20175
First Ascent Israelis first 9a. Left exit of Neo. Just below the crux of Neo head out left, hard 3D climbing boulderproblem at the end of the roof.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aBlack LabelFrankenjura /  Schneiderloch13 July, 20163
2nd GO 25mins
9aTierra de NadieJuncosa3 November, 20205
2nd GO suprisingly really good route, tensiony moves in a horizontal roof with legendary finish. Definitely kneepads make the route easier, probably soft 9a with kneepads. Props to Dani.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aPunt'XNice /  Gorges du Loup26 October, 20083
I spent 3 days in summer and now did it second go! might be 9a+, very hard for 9a in my opinion, but 9a+??.. In this case, the slashgrade is the most relevant, natural except a few holds in the end
9aAlohaKronthal27 September, 20093
2 days, akward roof climbing, the hardest route on sandstone?
9aMaitre Vauban und der BasiliskVienna /  Höllental30 June, 20135
this route very nice to climb! Different sections and some rests in between. Slipped 2nd go from the last move, 3rd go was all right
9aThe Man that Follows HellFrankenjura /  Grüne Hölle30 October, 20113
30mins this year, very close to send last year (2 days), hard 9a, but the difference between Kawaschuwu and this is not two grades in my opinion
9aChromosome YInterlaken /  Charmey13 December, 20145
Amazing bouldery route which fit my style perfectly. Thanks for the beta Pirmin!
9aHonour and GloryEcho Canyon9 July, 20185
2nd GO
9aDer heilige GralFrankenjura /  Kolosseum12 September, 20095
Magical! Has not been dry since 2005! Maybe easy 9a, but way harder than most of other 8c+ in fj
9aA present for the futureArco /  Madonna della Rota2 January, 20105
First Ascent possible 9a+, 4 days in total with all brushing and figuring out the moves with not allways dry conditions, thanks to crew and to Ivan for bolting especially
9aMollans culetMollans3 November, 20135
First Ascent Superb climbing, tough 8c+ for sure, maybe breaks through 9a barrier?
9aFabelita r2Barcelona /  Santa Linya17 March, 20173
awful heat
9aClimb For LifeCustonaci14 October, 20125
First Ascent Bolted, cleaned and sent within three days. Good times...
9aCiudad de diosBarcelona /  Santa Linya5 February, 20163
Second go, but I had tried the sections before, as this is only connection
9aOrcaInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall15 July, 20203
It is an Alex Huber FA back from 2001 that was not repeated. I tried it back in 2009 and could the crux moves even as a single move, but then I made the FA of "harder" (longer) exit to the right which was another project by Alex calling it Fugu 9a. Orca still remained mystery for me. In 2017 I finally unlocked a new sequence to the left but could not do it that day. Today I did it in 3 tries. Really hard to grade, but despite it is much shorter than Fugu, I think it is at least equally hard.
9aEl PotroBarcelona / Margalef26 November, 20204
First Ascent. Start like Bumaye, then go straight up. Really good short power endurance.
9aFuck The systemBarcelona /  Santa Linya6 February, 20083
3.go, normal for grade I think
9aShortcutGrenoble /  La Balme3 August, 20105
2nd GO absolutely unsure about the grade, first part felt more like 8c+, then the whole route must be 9a. If it is only 8c,then it is not more than 8c+.
9aIl DomaniBilbao /  Baltzola4 May, 20145
Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect, awesome teps and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. Sooo happy. My hardest onsight ever 4sure.
9aMongoInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall15 November, 20171
no chance in the past, sent quickly this time
9aThe Right of PassageFlatanger2 July, 20165
First Ascent Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part.
9aLa Real Tierra de NadieJuncosa3 November, 20204
Probably equally difficult like Tierra de Nadie, maybe even easier, 1st go after TdN.
9aLa Ley IndignataBarcelona / Margalef9 November, 20203
Left start into La Ley Innata.
9aCampo con corviSardinia /  Domusnovas20 October, 20085
First Ascent Yes! 2 days
9aDer lange AtemVienna /  Höllental29 June, 20133
A kind of weird route - frist pitch is super hard, I am quite sure that it can be 8c+. Then there is super comfy ledge and the second pitch felt easier than the first pitch, at least for me. All together, second pitch makes it psychologically harder for sure and it could be somewhere around 9a. Fell off the third move 2nd and 3rd go and then sent it.
9aGancho PerfectoMargalef /  Finestra31 July, 20115
The finish is the killer! Except it felt easy now, but could be possibly 9a+
9aTranscriptionInterlaken /  Charmey13 December, 20145
First Ascent 2nd GO Fun bouldering in tiny fingercrack. Topout in Chromosome Y.
9aBlack Cobra (2)Herculane13 May, 20185
First Ascent Just amazing wall! Hard to give it a grade, maybe only 8c+, temps were not the best. Keeps going to the next anchor we put - even further extension the way it was bolted is super hard, more logical is putting a new two bolts and finish on the left -- to be continued.
9aHappy DayBarcelona /  Oliana10 February, 20175
First Ascent 2nd GO 9a/a+, super crimpy and weird moves, which is my style. Extension of Happy Hour. Bolted by Dani and Jon Cardwell?
9aHadesInnsbruck /  Nassereith23 August, 20095
9 goes in total, hard for me, a few chipped holds but quite good route, props to Patxi for 2nd go ascent later in the day!