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List of routes

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9aWeiße RoseInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall13 September, 20085
Yess! very solid for that grade in my opinion, with good conditions much better, maybe 9a+ I do not know
9aRainshadowMalham17 May, 20115
Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished
9aTCTGravere11 July, 20143
nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. A tribute to Tito Traversa first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi
9aPuro DreamingArco /  Massone23 February, 20183
First Ascent
9aLittle BadderFlatanger22 August, 20165
Finally got to do this exit too...
9aThe EssentialFrankenjura /  Luisenwand28 October, 20095
3 days, on the top climbed directly without right crack from Kaum Zeit zum atmen
9aThe House of ShockFrankenjura /  Rotenstein28 October, 20133
2nd GO tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three
9aOmEndstal14 June, 20095
6 goes, 2 days, beautiful climbing in rather alpine type of rock, props to Alex
9aJoe-citaBarcelona /  Oliana20 April, 20125
First Ascent first go, link up of Joe Blau and Marroncita. Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b)
9aClassifiedFrankenjura /  Holzgauer Wand28 September, 20153
2nd GO 9a/a+? so close on Modified after the ascent of Classified, such a bummer. nice to be outside after unlucky Puurs. Feeling strong.
9aAssassinSmith Rocks (OR) /  Unknown Crag9 November, 20183
2nd GO 2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aPerla východuMoravský kras16 September, 20075
First Ascent very hard, nice and tricky. Yeaaaaah!
9aTanec kuřátekJáchymka, Mor.kras30 March, 20105
First Ascent crazyy! narrow but long cave with tricky moves. After bouldery start, pumpy climbing follows difficult chimney where only your calfs are getting pumped, test of my new drill successful :-)
9aNapalm in the MorningVienna /  Adlitzgraben15 March, 20143
Brilliant line, but it all comes down to two single moves. FA by Berni Fiedlernsome years ago, some holds have broken since then supposedly and hasn't been reclimbed. It could be harder than the neigbouring Erfolg ist trainierbar,but I have no clue about the grade of that one either. Maybe just hard 8c+.
9aFlammen InutiFlatanger6 August, 20175
First Ascent suprisingly good addition to the cave. Start like Elden Inuti, before the last bolt of the first pitch keep going right and low. Then join Halibut. With the anchor at the first pitch of Elden Inuti 8c+/9a.
9aHakuna MatataMilano /  Cubo18 April, 20133
3rd go, pumpy
9aProcesVisnove4 May, 20163
very happy to send it despite humid and greasy conditions
9aBeginningArco /  Eremo di San Paolo3 September, 20203
2nd GO Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aAction DirecteFrankenjura /  Waldkopf19 May, 20085
the masterpiece
9aEcholokaceBýčí skála, Mor.kras17 October, 20105
First Ascent The weirdest boulderproblem ever! Great line and moves though!
9aLa prophétie des grenouillesFournel11 July, 20145
2nd GO ALMOST second 9a onsight in one day! broke a hold after the crux!
9aRetour GagnantAvignon /  St Léger31 January, 20185
First Ascent Done with a headlamp in the end of the day. Waiting for the big projects to dry up, hopefully...
9aValhallaFlatanger29 July, 20165
First Ascent Odins Eye extension, all the way to the final rail of Thor's. Incredibly massive pitch of ultra tiring climbing, at least 65 meters. Possibly one of the harder 9a's, but not 9a+. Bolted by Joe Kinder
9aPanteraFrankenjura /  Schneiderloch10 October, 20095
4 days, two falls from last hard move
9aPurgatoryHell21 July, 20135
First Ascent one day last year, second go this year. Perfect power endurance route
9aLos RevolucionariosKalymnos /  Odyssey25 May, 20095
6 tries, 3 days, big moves on strange holds, depens on conditions and your height
9aBiologicoArco /  Unknown Crag8 April, 20123
First Ascent 1 day ascent, bolted by Loris Manzana
9aWitchhammerFlatanger26 August, 20155
First Ascent 2nd GO A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik. Starts with a first few bolts of Nordic Flower and goes left, crossing Thors Hammer in the roof and going into the Brunhilde for the final crux. Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. Flatanger at its best.
9aMacedonian TripMavrovo16 October, 20185
First Ascent Project bolted by Klemen Becan in 2014. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. 3 goes
9aAbyssNice /  Gorges du Loup1 August, 20075
3.GO,not sure about grade,maybe 8c+/9a I dont know
9aA MuerteSiurana /  Can Piqui Pugui4 March, 20103
3 tries 2010,2 2008, easy 9a, but harder that 8c+
9aTodos los santosRoc Galliner6 February, 20145
First Ascent Amazing line to the left Ni Blog Ni Facebook. Slightly overhanging face on crimps. Unique place totally worth the hike. 3 goes. Bolted by David Gambus
9aLa Terza EtaCamaiore21 April, 20175
First Ascent 4 goes, ultra tired and ultra fight, but somehow I did not fall...
9aPalestinaCuenca13 February, 20135
such a bummer not onsight it, but shit happens. Next time I can more lucky
9aMoreMedveja26 March, 20165
First Ascent What a day! 3rd go, very intricate climbing on small holds and big moves
9aMiaVranjača25 July, 20205
First Ascent Amazing 50m line in an amazing cave close to Paklenica. Hard to say about the grade, after 25m of 8a/a+ you get into resistant section with weird crux which I think suits my style, even though after having worked the moves it is max 8c+. Possibly 8c+/9a. 3rd go.
9aUnpluggedFrankenjura /  Hardcorewändchen1 May, 20085
finally! so hard for for me! 5days?, took me the most time like no other
9aLe Cadre Nouvelle VersionProvence /  Céüse5 September, 20105
First Ascent 2nd go this year, 1 try five years ago of that 8c
9aIraBilbao /  Baltzola10 May, 20145
First Ascent shares the artificial start with Tas Tas, then goes straight via some funky moves in between stalactites. bolted by Patxi, humidity
9aLa Teoria del GestoRome /  Sperlonga21 December, 20173
First Ascent Climb most of Grandi Gesti, keep left all the way to the Cavalieri Selvaggi anchor. Unfortunately good kneebar before the final crux, which is reachy and all about srrange fingerlock
9aSuper FinaleSion/SW /  Rawyl17 July, 20163
First Ascent Hyper Finale and half way up into Etoile de Maya.
9aIm Reich des ShogunBasler Jura30 September, 20095
2nd ascent after Eric Talmadge (props to him), 2 days, 5 tries, amazing structure of rock
9aCabane au CanadaSion/SW /  Rawyl9 July, 20135
Long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in some of the most breathtaking sportclimbing-wall I have ever seen.
9aRoby in the SkyCalanques /  Unknown Crag3 January, 20093
11. go
9aTo tu jeste nebyloLabák18 March, 20125
First Ascent Together with Ondra Benes opened ground up this line which had been initially bolted from the top by Germans who adittionally chipped two holds. The bolts were chopped off and the line abandoned as it was. Awesome sustained climbing
9aBrunhilde low startFlatanger25 August, 20155
First Ascent A new line to the left of Thors Hammer bolted by Elliot Ashe. Has a jumar start and it is probably at hard 8c, but with the start from the groung through the crux of Thors Hammer, it is a good 9a for sure. Unfortunately fell from my onsight from the jumar start, then refreshed the moves in TH and then sent it in the sun!
9aInterklemezzoKanjon Tijesno22 September, 20183
First Ascent Amazing wall in Bosnia close to Banja Luka. It was bolted by Peter Schwamberger and during two days at Chill&Drill Fest I made the first ascent. First pitch is 8b+, then hard boulderproblem into technical finish. More projects waiting
9aperfect man 2.0Albenga /  Castelbianco20 April, 20175
2nd GO Climbs very well.
9aErfolg ist trainierbar reclimbedVienna /  Adlitzgraben22 April, 20075
4.Go,hard to grade it,specific moves,it could be 8c, 8c+ or 9a-as autor gave,cool boulder
9aFabela pa la enmiendaBarcelona /  Santa Linya31 January, 20105
1 go, big fight in the end of the day with wet holds and bad memory fro two years ago in Enmienda
9a9gGemona14 December, 20133
First Ascent 2nd GO a bit of old-school chipping, but really fun to climb! Super continuous, like comp route. But there are more walls in the regions, need to come back!
9aSouthern Smoke DirectRed River Gorge (KY) /  Bob Marley29 October, 20125
Hard to believe it, but it is true! two dazs ago felt bad, didn't know what to climb as I wanted to save onsights/flashes for another year, and now this came! thanks everyone for the beta and good vibes, moment I will never forget. Everything went so perfect. 9a benchmark I'd say.
9aBI HERRI, BORROKA BATLa cova de l'ocell20 February, 20165
2nd GO One really morpho boulderproblem followed by technical topout. Hard to give it a grade too. Easier the taller you are. Must be incredibly hard for Ramon, hats off!
9aGenius LociZadar /  Paklenica23 July, 20205
First Ascent Left start into Il Maratoneta. Adds very cruxy srart into the Maratoneta. Probably like short 8c/c+ into the crux of Maratoneta.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aDirecta BongadaBarcelona / Margalef23 November, 20204
First Ascent. Start like Directa Rodellar, finish in Bongada. It is link-up, but honestly, as a line it is the most direct and logical one. You do all the hard part from Directa Rodillar 8c+/9a, good kneebar and all the upper part of Bongada. Unfortunately the kneebar is too good to make any harder than hard 9a, maybe 9a/+, but definitely not 9a+. 1st real try after both Directa Rodillar and Bongada, in the very last minutes of the day.
9aSanjski par extensionOsp/Misja Pec16 March, 20083
the nightmare,not my style,3 falls from the top the day before
9aPPPNice /  Verdon7 August, 20105
First Ascent The line of the cave, though the climbing is not as nice as Pull Over. Not sure about the grade, probably harder than Pull Over, but maybe I am wrong because I did in the end of the day
9aPsikoterapiaBilbao /  Valdegobia7 May, 20143
power endurance
9aClimb FreeNezer Cave30 November, 20175
First Ascent Israelis first 9a. Left exit of Neo. Just below the crux of Neo head out left, hard 3D climbing boulderproblem at the end of the roof.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aBlack LabelFrankenjura /  Schneiderloch13 July, 20163
2nd GO 25mins
9aTierra de NadieJuncosa3 November, 20205
2nd GO suprisingly really good route, tensiony moves in a horizontal roof with legendary finish. Definitely kneepads make the route easier, probably soft 9a with kneepads. Props to Dani.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aAlohaKronthal27 September, 20093
2 days, akward roof climbing, the hardest route on sandstone?
9aMaitre Vauban und der BasiliskVienna /  Höllental30 June, 20135
this route very nice to climb! Different sections and some rests in between. Slipped 2nd go from the last move, 3rd go was all right
9aHalupca 1979Osp/Misja Pec24 November, 20085
I had not even wanted to send it that try, but suddenly I was on top, I do not know about grade - am I really so strong or am I just SO lucky recently? pretty good route though
9aThe Man that Follows HellFrankenjura /  Grüne Hölle30 October, 20113
30mins this year, very close to send last year (2 days), hard 9a, but the difference between Kawaschuwu and this is not two grades in my opinion
9aChromosome YInterlaken /  Charmey13 December, 20145
Amazing bouldery route which fit my style perfectly. Thanks for the beta Pirmin!
9aHonour and GloryEcho Canyon9 July, 20185
2nd GO
9aFabelita r2Barcelona /  Santa Linya17 March, 20173
awful heat
9aMartin KrpanOsp/Misja Pec11 November, 20063
9aA present for the futureArco /  Madonna della Rota2 January, 20105
First Ascent possible 9a+, 4 days in total with all brushing and figuring out the moves with not allways dry conditions, thanks to crew and to Ivan for bolting especially
9aMollans culetMollans3 November, 20135
First Ascent Superb climbing, tough 8c+ for sure, maybe breaks through 9a barrier?
9aClimb For LifeCustonaci14 October, 20125
First Ascent Bolted, cleaned and sent within three days. Good times...
9aCiudad de diosBarcelona /  Santa Linya5 February, 20163
Second go, but I had tried the sections before, as this is only connection
9aOrcaInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall15 July, 20203
It is an Alex Huber FA back from 2001 that was not repeated. I tried it back in 2009 and could the crux moves even as a single move, but then I made the FA of "harder" (longer) exit to the right which was another project by Alex calling it Fugu 9a. Orca still remained mystery for me. In 2017 I finally unlocked a new sequence to the left but could not do it that day. Today I did it in 3 tries. Really hard to grade, but despite it is much shorter than Fugu, I think it is at least equally hard.
9aEl PotroBarcelona / Margalef26 November, 20204
First Ascent. Start like Bumaye, then go straight up. Really good short power endurance.
9aFuguInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall20 September, 20095
what a fight! So unusually hot for September, but in the it got bit colder luckily,Alex's project from 1998, 6 goes, the right exit of Orca
9aOpen your mind r2Barcelona /  Santa Linya17 February, 20083
I am not sure if second pitch makes it harder altough it is not easy
9aShortcutGrenoble /  La Balme3 August, 20105
2nd GO absolutely unsure about the grade, first part felt more like 8c+, then the whole route must be 9a. If it is only 8c,then it is not more than 8c+.
9aIl DomaniBilbao /  Baltzola4 May, 20145
Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect, awesome teps and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. Sooo happy. My hardest onsight ever 4sure.
9aMongoInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall15 November, 20171
no chance in the past, sent quickly this time
9aThe Right of PassageFlatanger2 July, 20165
First Ascent Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part.
9aLa Real Tierra de NadieJuncosa3 November, 20204
Probably equally difficult like Tierra de Nadie, maybe even easier, 1st go after TdN.
9aLa Ley IndignataBarcelona / Margalef9 November, 20203
Left start into La Ley Innata.
9aDer lange AtemVienna /  Höllental29 June, 20133
A kind of weird route - frist pitch is super hard, I am quite sure that it can be 8c+. Then there is super comfy ledge and the second pitch felt easier than the first pitch, at least for me. All together, second pitch makes it psychologically harder for sure and it could be somewhere around 9a. Fell off the third move 2nd and 3rd go and then sent it.
9aPunt'XNice /  Gorges du Loup26 October, 20083
I spent 3 days in summer and now did it second go! might be 9a+, very hard for 9a in my opinion, but 9a+??.. In this case, the slashgrade is the most relevant, natural except a few holds in the end
9aGancho PerfectoMargalef /  Finestra31 July, 20115
The finish is the killer! Except it felt easy now, but could be possibly 9a+
9aTranscriptionInterlaken /  Charmey13 December, 20145
First Ascent 2nd GO Fun bouldering in tiny fingercrack. Topout in Chromosome Y.
9aBlack Cobra (2)Herculane13 May, 20185
First Ascent Just amazing wall! Hard to give it a grade, maybe only 8c+, temps were not the best. Keeps going to the next anchor we put - even further extension the way it was bolted is super hard, more logical is putting a new two bolts and finish on the left -- to be continued.
8c+Team VisionPal Picollo12 September, 20155
First Ascent 2nd GO the king line of the crag!!!55mmeters of vertical perfectness
8c+Directa RodillarBarcelona /  Margalef6 November, 20203
First Ascent 8c+/9a. A project from Dani Andrada to the right Bongada. Brutal boulderproblem into Rodillar 8a. Going straight up into Bongada would be an interesting challenge. Hard to grade, it is not my style but it felt hard to me. I tried it one day a few years ago, could not do it, this time on my 4th go.
8c+Jamaican AirplaneBaume les dames1 February, 20085
3.go, nice climbing
8c+TitantropeKalymnos /  Spartan Wall26 May, 20095
Well, for me it was more like 8c, but I do not know if I am so strong or the grades are just easy. But considering the fact that master of this crimpy style Dave suggested 8c+, I keep it like this...
8c+Ultimate SacrificeNice /  Gorges du Loup14 July, 20063
horrible start(8b)then nice
8c+BronxAvignon /  Orgon18 February, 20123
2nd GO came quite close onsight though I was quite tired
8c+Just One FixNice /  Gorges du Loup29 October, 20083
project of Cedric... Thanks!
8c+Desafiando a TsunamiBarcelona /  Alquezar9 March, 20113
1st go, but had tried the whole sequence before in other routes
8c+Art of FlightFlatanger10 September, 20135
First Ascent 8c+/9a, exit variation through Nordic Flower double extension to AMAZING 8c project on the right side of the cave
8c+X-LargeArco /  Unknown Crag23 February, 20185
maybe 1st repetition? super reachy, but I think 8c+ should be a good compromise. Nevertheless, cool route!
8c+Estado criticoSiurana /  El pati7 February, 20075
8c+PygocentrusAllgäu24 July, 20165
Nice fingery route