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List of routes

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9aLa Real Tierra de NadieJuncosa3 November, 20204
Probably equally difficult like Tierra de Nadie, maybe even easier, 1st go after TdN.
9aLa Ley IndignataBarcelona / Margalef9 November, 20203
Left start into La Ley Innata.
9aDer lange AtemVienna /  Höllental29 June, 20133
A kind of weird route - frist pitch is super hard, I am quite sure that it can be 8c+. Then there is super comfy ledge and the second pitch felt easier than the first pitch, at least for me. All together, second pitch makes it psychologically harder for sure and it could be somewhere around 9a. Fell off the third move 2nd and 3rd go and then sent it.
9aThe Right of PassageFlatanger2 July, 20165
First Ascent Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part.
9aTranscriptionInterlaken /  Charmey13 December, 20145
First Ascent 2nd GO Fun bouldering in tiny fingercrack. Topout in Chromosome Y.
9aBlack Cobra (2)Herculane13 May, 20185
First Ascent Just amazing wall! Hard to give it a grade, maybe only 8c+, temps were not the best. Keeps going to the next anchor we put - even further extension the way it was bolted is super hard, more logical is putting a new two bolts and finish on the left -- to be continued.
9aDer heilige GralFrankenjura /  Kolosseum12 September, 20095
Magical! Has not been dry since 2005! Maybe easy 9a, but way harder than most of other 8c+ in fj
9aGancho PerfectoMargalef /  Finestra31 July, 20115
The finish is the killer! Except it felt easy now, but could be possibly 9a+
9aXaxid hostelOsp/Misja Pec16 November, 20093
3 goes (+ 3 goes in Ekstaza 2 years ago), definately the hardest in Misja pec, I would go rather for hard 9a than 9a+, climbed in terrible humidity
9aThe Elder StatesmanFrankenjura /  Rotenstein28 October, 20135
2nd GO close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day
9aHappy DayBarcelona /  Oliana10 February, 20175
First Ascent 2nd GO 9a/a+, super crimpy and weird moves, which is my style. Extension of Happy Hour. Bolted by Dani and Jon Cardwell?
9aFuck The systemBarcelona /  Santa Linya6 February, 20083
3.go, normal for grade I think
9aWalk the lineInnsbruck /  Zillertal14 July, 20204
Amazing diagonal line first asended by Jakob Schubert this spring. Really hard start that took me a long time to figure out, into some kneebaring and easier climbing, into pumpy finish. One try to check the moves, one more try to work the moves at the bottom and then epic fight on my third try
9aVictimas PerezMargalef / Finestra30 November, 20203
My nightmare, tried a few days back in 2015, a few days this trip, usually tired and when conditions were too bad for Perfecto. Today sent with severe humidity.
9aCondé de chocMontpellier /  Entraygues31 May, 20125
nice bouldery start, clipping the third bolt is the crux
9aDefinicion de resistencia democrataBarcelona /  Terradets4 February, 20163
2nd GO
9aNorthern LightsKilnsey3 May, 20105
great power endurance testpiece
9aBack RoadTrentino /  Unknown Crag22 April, 20145
First Ascent 3rd go
9aCi staArco /  Laghel14 November, 20173
First Ascent brutal boulderproblem
9aCampo con corviSardinia /  Domusnovas20 October, 20085
First Ascent Yes! 2 days
9aSenzaceKrkavka18 September, 20204
reclimbed after a hold broke, probably low-end 9a
9aMarsupilamiKochel23 June, 20135
overall it is a nice line with hard boulder on the top.
9aUnder VibesArco /  Massone15 May, 20163
harder than Underground, hard 9a for sure, but for me not 9a+.
9aMade in PolandPodzamcze4 December, 20145
oh yeees,100th 9a and harder, took me 8 years to do them. This one was a special climb, completely vetical pocket climbing with super slippery footholds, especially if it is as cold as today! 3rd go, would have been second go if drone crash hadn't happened next to me on my second go
9aThunder ribesArco /  Unknown Crag1 May, 20183
9aHadesInnsbruck /  Nassereith23 August, 20095
9 goes in total, hard for me, a few chipped holds but quite good route, props to Patxi for 2nd go ascent later in the day!
9aEra VellaMargalef /  La visera de la coma30 July, 20115
2nd GO way more pumped than in the onsight, but I somehow battled my way up
9aLife's Blood for DowntroddenFrankenjura /  Vergessene Welt30 October, 20095
2 days, strange and hard to figure out, but very cool route
9aSever The Wicked HandFrankenjura /  Hängender Stein28 October, 20135
tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft
9aJungfrau MarathonInterlaken /  Gimmelwald4 October, 20165
Such a bummer not to have onsighted this one! Messed up the sequence so badly and continued to the top straight after the fall. Then sent the following morning in the full sun.
9aLa novena enmiendaBarcelona /  Santa Linya5 February, 20085
my birthday, without rest in hole 9a+, with the rest it is not much harder than Traversia de la Enmienda
9aLa Sensación del BloqueValle de los Cóndores24 November, 20185
One day ascent.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aDuele la realidad R2Barcelona /  Oliana23 April, 20125
2nd GO fell off the last move of first pitch (8c+) in onsight, lowered myself down and sent it the next day, onsighting the second pitch. Frustrating end of the trip, failed to finnish off my ultimate project and revealing how close I was to onsight this thing.
9aCizí agentMoravský kras3 December, 20153
First Ascent crazy humid morning, but i crimped hard enough. Super specific route on micro holds in the vertical wall
9anorth starKilnsey2 May, 20105
4th go, normal 9a for tall peoplel, harder for short ones
9aUndergroundArco /  Massone19 April, 20143
4 goes in total. First try flash in 2011 - fell off from the top. 2012 - retro flash and fell off from the top. 2014 - retro onsight/flash (as I forgot the sequence) and fell off from the top. Sent 30mis later.
9aHelloHell17 September, 20173
First Ascent Hell is project free!!!
9aWeiße RoseInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall13 September, 20085
Yess! very solid for that grade in my opinion, with good conditions much better, maybe 9a+ I do not know
9aAthena NaturalArco / Massone4 September, 20203
Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! In the end, I found better beta and did it today while being tired and with approaching darkness.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aIllusionistFlatanger27 May, 20135
First Ascent I bolted this unimpressive line by chance as I had my static rope already hanging with the intention to make bouldery 8a-b as a good way warm up fingers before the projects. It turn out to be much harder than expected. Mini route with some cool moves, better than looks.
9aProcesorVisnove4 May, 20163
First Ascent. Pumpier finish to Proces in Los Brnos, 9a/a+.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aTCTGravere11 July, 20143
nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. A tribute to Tito Traversa first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi
9aPuro DreamingArco /  Massone23 February, 20183
First Ascent
9aOmEndstal14 June, 20095
6 goes, 2 days, beautiful climbing in rather alpine type of rock, props to Alex
9aRainshadowMalham17 May, 20115
Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished
9aThe EssentialFrankenjura /  Luisenwand28 October, 20095
3 days, on the top climbed directly without right crack from Kaum Zeit zum atmen
9aThe House of ShockFrankenjura /  Rotenstein28 October, 20133
2nd GO tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three
9aLittle BadderFlatanger22 August, 20165
Finally got to do this exit too...
9aPerla východuMoravský kras16 September, 20075
First Ascent very hard, nice and tricky. Yeaaaaah!
9aClassifiedFrankenjura /  Holzgauer Wand28 September, 20153
2nd GO 9a/a+? so close on Modified after the ascent of Classified, such a bummer. nice to be outside after unlucky Puurs. Feeling strong.
9aAssassinSmith Rocks (OR) /  Unknown Crag9 November, 20183
2nd GO 2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aJoe-citaBarcelona /  Oliana20 April, 20125
First Ascent first go, link up of Joe Blau and Marroncita. Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b)
9aTanec kuřátekJáchymka, Mor.kras30 March, 20105
First Ascent crazyy! narrow but long cave with tricky moves. After bouldery start, pumpy climbing follows difficult chimney where only your calfs are getting pumped, test of my new drill successful :-)
9aNapalm in the MorningVienna /  Adlitzgraben15 March, 20143
Brilliant line, but it all comes down to two single moves. FA by Berni Fiedlernsome years ago, some holds have broken since then supposedly and hasn't been reclimbed. It could be harder than the neigbouring Erfolg ist trainierbar,but I have no clue about the grade of that one either. Maybe just hard 8c+.
9aFlammen InutiFlatanger6 August, 20175
First Ascent suprisingly good addition to the cave. Start like Elden Inuti, before the last bolt of the first pitch keep going right and low. Then join Halibut. With the anchor at the first pitch of Elden Inuti 8c+/9a.
9aAction DirecteFrankenjura /  Waldkopf19 May, 20085
the masterpiece
9aBeginningArco /  Eremo di San Paolo3 September, 20203
2nd GO Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before.
Video available on my YouTube channel.
9aHakuna MatataMilano /  Cubo18 April, 20133
3rd go, pumpy
9aProcesVisnove4 May, 20163
very happy to send it despite humid and greasy conditions
9aLa prophétie des grenouillesFournel11 July, 20145
2nd GO ALMOST second 9a onsight in one day! broke a hold after the crux!
9aRetour GagnantAvignon /  St Léger31 January, 20185
First Ascent Done with a headlamp in the end of the day. Waiting for the big projects to dry up, hopefully...
9aLos RevolucionariosKalymnos /  Odyssey25 May, 20095
6 tries, 3 days, big moves on strange holds, depens on conditions and your height
9aEcholokaceBýčí skála, Mor.kras17 October, 20105
First Ascent The weirdest boulderproblem ever! Great line and moves though!
9aPanteraFrankenjura /  Schneiderloch10 October, 20095
4 days, two falls from last hard move
9aPurgatoryHell21 July, 20135
First Ascent one day last year, second go this year. Perfect power endurance route
9aValhallaFlatanger29 July, 20165
First Ascent Odins Eye extension, all the way to the final rail of Thor's. Incredibly massive pitch of ultra tiring climbing, at least 65 meters. Possibly one of the harder 9a's, but not 9a+. Bolted by Joe Kinder
9aAbyssNice /  Gorges du Loup1 August, 20075
3.GO,not sure about grade,maybe 8c+/9a I dont know
9aWitchhammerFlatanger26 August, 20155
First Ascent 2nd GO A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik. Starts with a first few bolts of Nordic Flower and goes left, crossing Thors Hammer in the roof and going into the Brunhilde for the final crux. Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. Flatanger at its best.
9aMacedonian TripMavrovo16 October, 20185
First Ascent Project bolted by Klemen Becan in 2014. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. 3 goes
9aBiologicoArco /  Unknown Crag8 April, 20123
First Ascent 1 day ascent, bolted by Loris Manzana
9aA MuerteSiurana /  Can Piqui Pugui4 March, 20103
3 tries 2010,2 2008, easy 9a, but harder that 8c+
9aTodos los santosRoc Galliner6 February, 20145
First Ascent Amazing line to the left Ni Blog Ni Facebook. Slightly overhanging face on crimps. Unique place totally worth the hike. 3 goes. Bolted by David Gambus
9aLa Terza EtaCamaiore21 April, 20175
First Ascent 4 goes, ultra tired and ultra fight, but somehow I did not fall...
9aUnpluggedFrankenjura /  Hardcorewändchen1 May, 20085
finally! so hard for for me! 5days?, took me the most time like no other
9aMiaVranjača25 July, 20205
First Ascent Amazing 50m line in an amazing cave close to Paklenica. Hard to say about the grade, after 25m of 8a/a+ you get into resistant section with weird crux which I think suits my style, even though after having worked the moves it is max 8c+. Possibly 8c+/9a. 3rd go.
9aPalestinaCuenca13 February, 20135
such a bummer not onsight it, but shit happens. Next time I can more lucky
9aMoreMedveja26 March, 20165
First Ascent What a day! 3rd go, very intricate climbing on small holds and big moves
9aIraBilbao /  Baltzola10 May, 20145
First Ascent shares the artificial start with Tas Tas, then goes straight via some funky moves in between stalactites. bolted by Patxi, humidity
9aLa Teoria del GestoRome /  Sperlonga21 December, 20173
First Ascent Climb most of Grandi Gesti, keep left all the way to the Cavalieri Selvaggi anchor. Unfortunately good kneebar before the final crux, which is reachy and all about srrange fingerlock
9aRoby in the SkyCalanques /  Unknown Crag3 January, 20093
11. go
9aLe Cadre Nouvelle VersionProvence /  Céüse5 September, 20105
First Ascent 2nd go this year, 1 try five years ago of that 8c
9aIm Reich des ShogunBasler Jura30 September, 20095
2nd ascent after Eric Talmadge (props to him), 2 days, 5 tries, amazing structure of rock
9aCabane au CanadaSion/SW /  Rawyl9 July, 20135
Long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in some of the most breathtaking sportclimbing-wall I have ever seen.
9aSuper FinaleSion/SW /  Rawyl17 July, 20163
First Ascent Hyper Finale and half way up into Etoile de Maya.
9aErfolg ist trainierbar reclimbedVienna /  Adlitzgraben22 April, 20075
4.Go,hard to grade it,specific moves,it could be 8c, 8c+ or 9a-as autor gave,cool boulder
9aBrunhilde low startFlatanger25 August, 20155
First Ascent A new line to the left of Thors Hammer bolted by Elliot Ashe. Has a jumar start and it is probably at hard 8c, but with the start from the groung through the crux of Thors Hammer, it is a good 9a for sure. Unfortunately fell from my onsight from the jumar start, then refreshed the moves in TH and then sent it in the sun!
9aInterklemezzoKanjon Tijesno22 September, 20183
First Ascent Amazing wall in Bosnia close to Banja Luka. It was bolted by Peter Schwamberger and during two days at Chill&Drill Fest I made the first ascent. First pitch is 8b+, then hard boulderproblem into technical finish. More projects waiting
9aTo tu jeste nebyloLabák18 March, 20125
First Ascent Together with Ondra Benes opened ground up this line which had been initially bolted from the top by Germans who adittionally chipped two holds. The bolts were chopped off and the line abandoned as it was. Awesome sustained climbing
8c+The voiceSardinia /  Domusnovas24 October, 20095
First Ascent fine boulder, good piece of rock
8c+Banana BalletFlatanger29 September, 20125
First Ascent the oldest project in cave, crazy crux with dancing on smears using only undercuts above your head
8c+politicamente corruptosMargalef /  Unknown Crag15 February, 20173
onsight, just did the other 8c+ 7 years ago which share the same start (more or less 7c+). 8c+/9a in the guidebook
8c+Reality CheckInnsbruck /  Schleier Wasserfall6 July, 20085
another surprise of the day, 8b+ and the very insecure boulder (my beta is dyno) Btw, Open Air is 9a+ for sure (no chance yesterday)
8c+InfinityFrankenjura /  Eldorado8 August, 20063
9 tries
8c+Guilty perpetuaSant Llorenç de Montgai12 February, 20195
2nd GO
8c+SpeedZürich /  Voralpsee3 August, 20075
the best route ever
8c+La Grande linea dei SogniErto18 April, 20093
8c+/9a, start in Big Mother, end in Linea dei Sogni
8c+Charlie and the CatCimbergo26 June, 20115
First Ascent 2nd GO good moves, flash was not so far
8c+Silent MenaceSquamish /  Unknown Crag15 February, 20153
2nd GO
8c+Tres SatelitesJaen17 March, 20135
First Ascent an established project with one artificial hold, the rest is truly phenomenal climbing. Should have flashed, such a punter. Out of two weeks, I could climb on my ultimate project for one day - so frustrating! SO much rain, so many seeping holds... But still loving Andalucia!
8c+InceptionNezer Cave30 November, 20175
First Ascent 8c+/9a, amazing power endurance climbing. Starts right of Matrix, then crosses it to the left