My AO journey

In years

1993

Birth

1995

First tries in Misja Pec, Slovenia

2002

Redpoints 8a Funky Shit in Paklenica, Croatia.

2003

At age 10, onsights 8a route.

2004

Onsights 8a+ route and redpoints 8c Mascherina in Italy.

2005

Onsights 8b.

2006

At age 13, climbs his first 9a - Martin Krpan in Misja Pec, Slovenia.

2007

Makes the first ascent of Perla východu (9a / 5.14d) in Holštejn, Moravian Karst, Czechia.

2008

Makes the first free ascent of WoGu (8c multi-pitch) in Ratikon, Switzerland. The name is a homage to Wolfgang Gullich. He also redpoints Action Directe (9a) and onsights Hotel Supramonte (8b multi-pitch) in Sardinia.

2009

At age 16, competes as an adult for the first time in Lead World Cup. Wins overall, beating Patxi Usobiaga and Sachi Amma. He also takes a silver medal from the Lead World Championships the same year.

2010

Wins Bouldering World Cup, beating Kilian Fischhuber, and gets a bronze medal from Lead World Cup.

2011

Becomes the second person, after Patxi Usobiaga, to onsight 8c+ Kidetasunaren balio erantsia in Etxauri, Spain. Goes on to onsight five more 8c+ routes within a month, two of which occur in one day. He makes the first ascents of La Capella (9b) in Siurana, Spain; La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain; and Terranova (8C+, V16) in the Czech Republic. He also makes the second ascents of Gioia (8C+, V16) in Varazze, Italy; and Chilam Bilam (9a+) in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.

Gets 2 medals from Climbing World Championships - silver from Bouldering and bronze from Lead Climbing

2012

Makes the first ascent of Change, Flatanger, Norway. World’s first 9b+. He also onsights Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket, the two hardest routes in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Downgrades both.

Gets a bronze medal from Bouldering World Championships

2013

After nine weeks of cumulative work, redpoints and makes the first ascent of La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain; climbs the world’s second 9b+; and makes the first ascents of Vasil Vasil (9b+) (=> Watch on YouTube) in Sloup, the Czech Republic; Move (9b) in Flatanger, Norway; and Iron Curtain (9b) in Flatanger, Norway.

2014

Onsights Il Domani (9a), making potentially the world’s first true 9a onsight.

Becomes the World Champion in both bouldering and lead climbing, becoming the only person ever to win both disciplines in a single year. On top of that, he finishes third overall in the Lead World Cup season.

2015

Makes the first ascent of C.R.S. (9b) in Mollans sure, Ouvèze, France.

Gets 2 medals from World Cups - gold from lead climbing and bronze from bouldering

2016

In 2016 showed up in the Yosemite Valley and waltzed his way up the runout Dawn Wall (9a, 5.14d) El Capitan for its whirlwind second ascent. He finishes the route in eight days, leading every pitch.

Wins gold medal in Lead World Championship and places second in bouldering.

2017

Makes the first ascent of Silence (9c), Flatanger, Norway. World’s first 9c. He also makes the first ascents of One Slap - Queen Line (9b, 5.15b) in Arco, Italy; and Mamichula (9b) in Oliana, Spain.

2018

Flashes Super Crackinette (9a+, 5.15a) in Saint-Léger Du Ventoux, France. He also climbs La Castagne (9a+, 5.15a) in Avignon - St Léger, France and makes the first ascents of Disbelief (9b, 5.15b) in Acephale, Calgary; High Line (9a+, 5.15a) in Kanjon Tijesno, Bosnia and Herzegovina; Sacrifice (9a+, 5.15a) in Echo Canyon, Nevada, USA; Stone Butterfly (9a+, 5.15a) in Herculane, Romania; and Eagle-4 (9b, 5.15b) in Avignon - St Léger, France, where he has been falling for many days, thinking this is no 9a+(5.15a). In the end, he hesitantly proposes 9b.

Takes silver from Lead World Championships

2019

Climbs Neanderthal (9b, 5.15b) in Barcelona, Santa Linya, Spain; Qui (9a+, 5.15a) in Innsbruck, Geisterschmiedwand, Austria; and Catxasa (9a+, 5.15a) in Barcelona, Santa Linya, Spain.

Gets 3 gold medals from lead climbing and one from bouldering in one world cup season. Wins Lead World Championships (Hajioji, Japan), wins overall Lead World Cup, wins European Lead Climbing Championships (Edinburgh, UK), places second overall in Bouldering World Cup.

2020

Climbs Bohemian Rhapsody (9a+, 5.15a) in Roviště, the Czech Republic. He also sends Directa Bongada (9a, 5.14d) in Barcelona - Margalef, Catalonia, Spain; Tierra de Nadie (9a, 5.14d) in Juncosa, Catalonia, Spain; La Real Tierra de Nadie (9a, 5.14d) in Juncosa, Catalonia, Spain; Athena Natural (9a, 5.14d) in Arco, Massone, Italy; and makes the first ascent of El Potro (9a, 5.14d) in Barcelona - Margalef, Catalonia, Spain.

Takes gold from Lead World Cup

2021

Climbs The Lonely Mountain (9b, 5.15b) and Erebor (9b, 5.15b) in Eremo, Italy. Over his home rocks he sends Taurus (11+/12-, 5.15b/5.15c), Kout Pikle (11+/5.15b) and Molekuly (11+/5.15b), Býčí skála, Czechia.

Gets 2 gold medals from Boulder World Cups.
Participates on his first Olympic Games (where the climbing is introduced for the first time in history) in Tokyo, Japan (6th place in Combined Format)

2022

Sends Bomba (9b, 5.15b), Bombardino (9a+/9b, 5.15a/5.15b) and Trofeo Dell`Adriatico (9a+, 5.15a), all in Bus de la Stria, Italy. Also climbs Furia De Jabali (9a+, 5.15a) in Siurana, Spain, and makes the first ascent of Wonderland (9b/9b+, 5.15b/5.15c), in Terra Promessa, Italy.
Onsights Water World (9a, 5.14d) in Osp, Slovenia. Climbs the second hardest route of his life - Zvěřinec (9b+, 5.15c) in Sloup, Czechia. At the end of the year he makes first free-climb of a wall inside Macocha abyss - Příklepový strop (10+/5.14a) in Žleby (watch on YouTube), Moravian Karst, Czechia.

Wins gold medal in Lead European Championships in Munich (watch on YouTube) and places second in Combined Format and third in Bouldering. Gets another 2 gold medals - one from Lead World Cup and second from Boulder European Continental Cup (watch on YouTube).

2023

Makes the first ascent of El Maquinista, (9a+/9b, 5.15a/5.15b) in Montanejos, Spain. In Slovenia he flashes Peščena Ura (9a, 5.14d) in Sopota and sends a new power endurance test piece Fantazija (9a+, 5.15a) in Ter. On his family vacation he sends A je to! (9a/9a+, 5.14d/5.15a) and later B je to! (9b, 5.15b), both in Vranjača, Croatia.

Takes 2 silver medals from World Cups - Boulder World Cup in Prague (watch on YouTube) and Lead World Cup in Villars.

2024

Climbs Narcissus (9a, 5.14d) in Val Pennavaire, Italy. He also sends Bon Voyage (9a, 5.14d) - trad, in Annot, France.

Takes 2 bronze medals from Combined Format in the Olympic Qualifier series.

Prepares for his second Olympic Games in Paris, France.