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Directa Rodillar 8c+/9a

Margalef is a huge climbing area, offering sectors both in the shade and in the sun. La Finestra, the sector where Perfecto Mundo is located, suffers more due to humid and rainy conditions as it is north-oriented and not very exposed to the wind. That is why we headed out to Raco de les Espadelles, which south-facing cliff is considerably exposed to the wind and dries up quite quickly after rain. It is the biggest sector that is really cool as it has both easy and extreme routes in relative proximity. I have already visited this sector a few times in the past and as in many other sectors in Margalef, I usually struggled on some of these routes.

One of the routes I have tried and haven’t done in the past is La Bongada 8c+/9a, tackling really spectacular cave in the middle. Unfortunately, this route was still pretty wet, so I turned my attention to the project more to the right, bolted by Dani Andrada. I had already tried this one too a few years ago and I thought its short and super powerful character would be a great compensation to rather pumpy and continuous climbing La Finestra. After a few tries, I managed to get it done and first ascent of Directa Rodillar 8c+/9a was born.

I wanted to continue my quest for short bouldery routes to work pure power, so I went to try Enemigo Publico nr. 1 8c+/9a - a route first ascended by Iker Pou. It is an absolutely brutal board-like route with nothing but monos and two-finger pockets. Well, I could not really imagine doing that crux move, which is really, really hard, and obviously, I still need to improve in this brutal pocket pulling. To finish the day, I wanted to send Pal Norte 8c+/9a - a route I had already tried one day many years ago (and found it impossibly hard and pumpy), but unfortunately, I got up to the upper headwall too pumped. Definitely one to come back for in order to get rid of one more “nightmare” route. There are still a few left in Margalef for me.

Great to see a blog post. Miss the good old days when blog posts where the way to go for many athletes. To me a much more interesting format with possibilities for real story-telling compared with say instagram. Hope to see more of them! Good luck on the project!

Thanks!

Hi, just some feedback: The content is great as a bonus to the insta posts and I enjoy reading it. However, the gallery under the post is so annoying, because you have to click to every picture to see it and to minimize it again, so that you can click on another etc. I don't have the patience to do all the clicking and I suspect I won't be alone. Which is a pitty, because the photos are stunning. Keep up the good work and I wish you good conditions for Perfecto Mundo, based on the first day it seems with enough wind, you'll send it in two or three days :).

Hi Pavel,
Thank you very much for your feedback! The whole site is being developed on site (Margalef) as we go so there is a lot of tinkering and adjusting - between all the content producing and time at the crag! :-) Anyway, we just had a discussion to show the images as big as possible (based on user's screen) right away - no thumbnails in photo gallery, no effects, just big beautiful images.

I agree, the format of just small awkward thumbnails that are hard to click on and it's not the most convenient to have to exit out of each picture to try to open another one. Instead clicking a button to go to the next one or swiping would be really nice. I love the pictures and the updates, also I love the uncut footage filmed on just a phone or anything. Keep it coming!!!

Amazing bonus for the ones, like me, who want an extra story to what's told on Insta, and "easier" to develop than a video I guess. In terms of the photos, I had no problem in watching them on my phone, either big and clicking to go small again, or just enhacing the whole screen, super easy to handle them. I guess you already sorted it out, since I didn't have any problem like the previous one said. Go Adam, sending you redpointing vibes from Argentina! Vamos Adam, carajo!

Thank you, Adam. Keep strong and motivated. I live in Iran and I really hope someday I can meet you. And I hope you can travel for rock climbing in Iran someday. I would do my best to help you and your team if needed. Thanks for inspiring climbers around this little globe.

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