European Championships in Munich was definitely the competition highlight of the season for me! Due to different reasons, I decided to compete relatively little this season, and Munich was the main goal. The venue was probably one of the best I have ever seen. Bouldering World cups in Munich had always been amazing, taking place in the stands of the Olympic stadium from the 1972 Olympics , but this venue in Königplatz was a different level and basically full-house from qualification rounds!
First, it was 4 days of competing nonstop for the single disciplines lead and boulder. 1st-day boulder qualification, 2nd-day lead qualification. Both of these went all right without too much fatigue and with good feelings. Day 3 was the semifinals and finals of bouldering. That was already a pretty long and exhausting day. I was incredibly relieved to walk away with a bronze medal. Day 4 was the semifinals and finals of the lead. The Semifinal route was brutal , superphysical and long, and the previous days of competitions were definitely noticed, especially for me. The levity and flow of my climbing in qualification rounds were gone. After the semifinals, I was dead. I honestly thought that I would barely be able to climb in the finals. Luckily few hours of rest gave me a bit of a boost, and in very dramatic finals, I was able to win! Lead was the most important event of the competition for me, and I was ecstatic to walk away with gold.
For the next 3 days, I was absolutely destroyed . The competition days are not only physically taxing because of the volume of climbing, but the volume of stress that I have undergone for 4 days is immense, and it takes its toll. After 3 days of rest, it was time to fight in the Olympic discipline - boulder and lead combined
It was the first real test of the preliminary formula. Maximum of 100 points for both boulder and lead. 100 points distributed in 4 boulder problems, 25 points for each top. Every attempt extra deducts 0.1 points. For lead, you get 100 points if you reach the top. For the last 15 holds, you get 5 points for each hold. Between -15 and -25 holds, you get two points for every hold. Lower down, you get 1 point for every hold.
The formula at European Championships in Munich 2022 puts a lot of pressure on the route setters to split the results correctly, but at the end of the day, the results reflect what happened on the wall. Jakob Schubert made one more move on the lead wall and took gold, I took the silver .
All in all, it was a tiring but really exciting week!
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