Years of preparation with real professionals. Thank you all!
Created by: Adam Ondra2024/08/28
The Olympics or any other major goal in climbing is not only about the day itself, it is about the preparation and training for weeks and months before. In case of Olympics it is about years of preparation before.
I have a great team that makes me feel like it is not only up to me that has to do all the hard work. It is extremely important to have a coach you can trust who understands the science behind training perfectly and has a training plan that is perfect for you based on your training history and goals. Petr Klofac has been the best coach, and together with his teacher and mentor Josef Andrle from Andrle Sport, they made the best of myself (so far?!). I think I showed in the lead.
Gabriela Vrablikova has been my physio for a few years. It is a pretty stressful job as I definitely freak out as soon as I feel a bit of pain, but most importantly, we have found a way to make my body more resistant to modern bouldering. It was a lot of trial and error, as my body is pretty "weird", and regular exercises often just don't work for me. I think this ultimately pushed me so much in bouldering, more than anything else. I think I could show it consistently this season in every round. Unfortunately, I could not show it in the most important round - the Olympic finals.
To me, the most memorable part of every big competition is the mental tunnel I got into in the weeks before. And before Paris, it was exceptionally hard. But hard means memorable, and that means it is worth it. For this, I had a great friend and mentor, Patxi Usobiaga. He has more experience than anyone else, and he knows exactly how I was feeling. Without you, I would just get crazy.
Thank you all a lot!
Photos by Petr Chodura and Javi Pec